Front Axle Oil Seals

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Mon Mar 03, 2014 6:03 pm

I have leaking oil seals where the front drive shafts enter the gearbox (both sides):

From what I have read, to replace the seals I have to remove the diff side retainers. These control diff backlash & it seems that even if I put them back in exactly the same position, the backlash may still be affected. I've been reading this is not an easy job to do right & I can imagine a mechanic will charge a hefty price for doing it.

Has anyone else done this? How difficult a job was it & did you have any probs later?

Why did the seals go? This is the same side only one month ago when I did the CV boots!

Point · Post by **Point** » Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:47 pm

I've done it and it was no drama at all. Just mark the retainer and count the turns as you remove them. If you get genuine seals there is a left and a right. I think it was recommended to put electrical tape over the splines to protect the seals as you reinstall them. There are O rings around the outside of the retainer so it would be wise to change them while you're at it.

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:08 pm

OK, just worried bout touching anything that affects backlash or preload

This is a good DIY:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1602465

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Mar 09, 2014 11:40 pm

The main reason these seals go, is due to oil becoming too thin. I would try replacing the oil first, then degrease and wash the outside, then watch it over the next few weeks. The other thing is you may have nicked it when you replaced the boot. I would think this is very hard to do but not ruling this out (sorry)

If it continues to leak, then I'd look at replacing one side at a time. Unless you changing the bearings, then you shouldn't need to worry about preload. I'd just mark the retainer and count the turns. Remember the use lubricate the new seal.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 8:09 pm

I've done mine in the original gearbox, it did 100k km without any issues, then ended up in a mate's car for a while too.

I also did the same with the gearbox used in the EJ conversion - I didn't do any "proper" diff adjustments, just put it together without any knocking/clunking when turning the diff back and forth - that went for about 90k km without issue.

I'm sure you'll get it right!

Cheers

Bennie

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat Mar 15, 2014 10:23 pm

I got the seals replaced & the preload adjusted (thanks to Rick who did a great job & looked after me with the cost too):

gearbox oil stinks & doubly so when it drips on a hot exhaust:

gearbox side retainer off:

Bad news is the diff breather came out of my new plated rear diff & dirt/water got in

I'll have to flush it out & redo the breather with a brass fitting

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 10:12 am

NachaLuva wrote:Bad news is the diff breather came out of my new plated rear diff & dirt/water got in I'll have to flush it out & redo the breather with a brass fitting

I'll be keen to read up on what you use to do this - I need to do it too!

Should crack into it before Walhalla!

Cheers

Bennie

Venom · Post by **Venom** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 9:02 pm

Definitely bad news on the breather. It's something I worry about myself with a fitting that just pushes in! A threaded brass fitting with a screw on hose i think is the way to go, although costly it would be a sound investment.

Glad you got your seals sorted out. Poked my head under my car and found the same problem, although i don't think its as bad.

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 9:15 pm

guys just go to any hose supplier and get a brass screw in barb and a tap to suit. i think even supercheap sells them.

take the diff cover off, tap the hole that the plastic breather is in (its the right size) and screw the brass fitting in with some thread sealant.

tip that I only worked out the second time I did it: the barbs are usually about 40mm long, cut it down to 20ish so the pipe you use isn't pushed hard up against the crossmember above.

I laughed when I saw the "pipe over the plastic fitting" method on ORS. that was always going to fail. sorry to hear it resulted in mud and crap in your nice new diff.

by the way this is not expensive. the barb i bought recently cost $4..

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 9:26 pm

Venom wrote:Definitely bad news on the breather. It's something I worry about myself with a fitting that just pushes in! A threaded brass fitting with a screw on hose i think is the way to go, although costly it would be a sound investment.

vincentvega wrote:guys just go to any hose supplier and get a brass screw in barb and a tap to suit. i think even supercheap sells them.

take the diff cover off, tap the hole that the plastic breather is in (its the right size) and screw the brass fitting in with some thread sealant.

Yep, this is exactly what I was going to do. I think its a 1/4" BSP fitting.

tip that I only worked out the second time I did it: the barbs are usually about 40mm long, cut it down to 20ish so the pipe you use isn't pushed hard up against the crossmember above.

You could use a right angled fitting. I cut a hole in my crossmember for the hose so I wont need to cut down the fitting. Really wished I'd done it this way first!

sorry to hear it resulted in mud and crap in your nice new diff.

Me too!

Glad you got your seals sorted out. Poked my head under my car and found the same problem, although i don't think its as bad.

Check your oil, mine was a little milky & the level very high, so some water must have got in through the gearbox breather. I'll flush it out & put on an extension...just bit of PVC hose with a cheap fuel filter on the end.

Rick said my seals looked fine so it may have been just water getting in & raising the oil level which caused the seals to leak

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 10:48 am

you cant use a right angle fitting. think about how it screws in...