EA81 Inlet Manifold Gaskets

David D · Post by **David D** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 2:40 pm

Hi everyone

As the title suggests, I'm looking to replace the inlet manifold gaskets on my Subaru. It's a 1987 Brumby, EA81.
I know I'm likely to be in for some bolt snappage and I just wanna gather some general info before I start taking it apart. Not sure exactly when I'll be tackling it but I wanna be ready.

Is it a good idea to replace bolts even if they don't snap? And are they a standard thread / size? Would like to have some ready in preparation for the worst.

Also, what sort of stuff is it good to have just incase it all goes wrong? I hear mixed reports of 'easy-outs'.

Do people use genuine gaskets or aftermarket? And what about some sort of sealant?

Lastly, are there any other things that will be easier to do 'while I'm in there'?

Any advice appreciated

cheers

David D

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:06 pm

M8 1.25 pitch

I've never successfully used an ezi out

I use helicoil type kits.
Often find it is not the thread siezed but shaft in manifold, so when I refit, use thread tape on the shaft, used to use grease.

Someone somewhere drills drain hholes in side of manifold to allow moisture to weep out that void,maybe drill first and dump crc556
Genuine gaskets, sealant is a personal thing and can be non hardening aviation gasket goo # two, grey max, depends on wha tis at hand

You could replace the small 7mm ID hoses from block to manifold

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:38 pm

Ezy-outs are not the easiest to use, the trick with them is you need to drill the hole right in the centre. Helicoil is definitely better if you break any just make sure you tap the new hole nice and straight/square. Use genuine gaskets if you can and make sure the surfaces are clean with no old crap stuck to them, you can put a tiny smear of sealant on both sides of the gasket. I use a red silicone based sealer that doesn't set hard, never had problems.

Also while you're there check your heater coolant transfer pipe the comes from the top of the water pump and goes under the manifold, check where it joints to heater hose and the small barb as these can rust out easily, and weep coolant without you noticing.

sublime · Post by **sublime** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 12:53 am

Genuine intake gaskets are a must! I see no point in wasting your time with most aftermarket versions. They are usually just cardboard and will not last!

FROG · Post by **FROG** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:43 am

Genuines are only $8.75 each - well worth the spend

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:17 pm

Fancy being able to get genuine gaskets 30 years after they appeared on the market - 35 years ? Other makes stop supply after five years with some things, and wait for th thing to become a classic before remakes appear !!

David D · Post by **David D** » Sat Feb 01, 2014 1:17 pm

As usual, thanks for all the helpful advice. I'll let you all know how it goes when I get round to it.

David

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:37 pm

I use only genuine gaskets and a small amount of Threebond sealant.

I'm that "someone" that Steptoe said drills drain holes. I found over the years that when the gasket leaks, the cooling fluid fills up on the bolts between the gasket and the head of the bolt. This in turn causes the 2 metals (steel bolt and aluminium manifold) to react with each other, thus causing some build up of corrosion in the bolt hole. I found by drilling a drain hole near the base of the manifold in to the bolt hole, this allowed any fluid to drain out. I also coat the whole bolt in anti-seize.

Don't stress about ezy-outs unless you break one but there is a few different ways to get broken bolts out before going to ezy-outs.

David D · Post by **David D** » Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:04 am

Just an update on this...

I started yesterday and managed to get 3 bolts out. I snapped the heads off 2 others and one came out about 20mm but now just turns without coming out (but will go back in). It's still pretty tight.
I didn't manage to get the manifold itself off, presumably because the snapped bolts are seized in there.
Hope to attack it again today but, even if I get the manifold off, might not be able to get any new bolts over Easter.
I'll post if there's any progress.

David D

David D · Post by **David D** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:20 pm

Well, finally got the manifold off today. Can't believe how much it resisted every step of the way. Took all manner of prying, pulling, hitting, drilling, swearing and generally questionable antics. Now I'm left with 2 partially destroyed bolts protruding from the heads but I'm hoping (and praying) that they'll come out - there's a fair bit to get hold of but might need to get some better vise grips.
Probably not gonna get to buy new bolts until later in the week when I'm off work, then I can start the rebuild.
While I had my head in the engine bay I also noticed one inner CV boot is almost split

and brake fluid has leaked from the master cylinder

. There's also a fair bit of black gunk to clean off the engine before the refit.
No rest for the wicked ute owner.

David D

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:29 pm

a good set of vice grips will do the job or a pipe chain clamp, if you can find one small enough.

I can't remember which company made them for removing bolts, but 20 years ago I used one to remove broken bolts from a head.

now all I can find are ones for removing oil filters like this one

stolen from http://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/viewt ... 3&start=10

ok this is similar

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/chain-tongs

this as well

http://toolmonger.com/2008/01/30/wrap-a ... -problems/

TOONGA

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:58 pm

Stanley package a stud remover that uses 1/2" square drive socket extensions and handle. A knurled wheel inside the cylindrical shaped tool bites on the stud - lets you break it flush with the head then

Always seem to be the od on of the three bolts each side that goes. Someone has said they drill a hole in the side throgh to the bolt hole so any leaking coolant escapes - a weep hole. I now use thread tape on the bolt shaft where it is inside the manifold, anti sieze on the threads

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:30 pm

I seem to have my manifolds off often enough that they don't have time to leak and seize up

Anyway using genuine gaskets and some silicone gasket sealer I've never had a leak yet, and the manifold pops off almost cleanly when it comes to taking it off again.

David D · Post by **David D** » Wed Apr 23, 2014 1:38 pm

I'm thinking about replacing a small coolant hose that kinda goes under the alternator. It's a funny shape with a few bends in it. Only thing is, I only have a straight length of hose. Does anyone know the piece I mean and do you reckon I can just persuade the straight bit to fit? I'm worried it might rub on stuff and wear through eventually.
I'd give you a pic but I just thought of this while I'm at work.

cheers

David D

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Wed Apr 23, 2014 5:03 pm

If Frog 02 69641014 cant supply that special shaped hose go to Enzed and get some fittings and new hose to replace the section. Sometimes you have to improvise.

Often Enzed will make up something to fit perfectly. Not cheap but neither are women.

David D · Post by **David D** » Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:12 pm

This is the hose I'm talking about, just for info...

David D · Post by **David D** » Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:19 pm

Here are a couple of pics of where I'm at

This is what I tried today but didn't have much time. They're so tight just feels like the bolts are twisting. I shall persevere...

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:46 pm

The dreaded seized inlet manifold bolts... yuk

As for the hose, just pop done to your local auto parts place and buy some heavy walled water hose

David D · Post by **David D** » Sat Apr 26, 2014 12:33 pm

Had more time yesterday and got the seized bolts out without too much drama. Things go better when you're not rushing.
Cleaned everything up a bit and started putting it back together. Finished it off this morning and, after a nerve-wracking few attempts, it started up. (I still regard starting the car after I've worked on it to be a small victory.)

I replaced the little hose with what I had so we'll see how it goes - forgot the pic

Didn't take it for a test drive as I wanna replace the cracked CV boot before it splits and throws grease all over the place.

Will be interesting to see if it runs better after this.

David

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sat Apr 26, 2014 4:06 pm

Well done David D. I can recall when my ea81 started up the first time with my supercharger and my own custom manifolds- what a buzz. Then the sPFI system- another bigger buzz. Reckon after its all recoed and new carbie- another buzz.