Tweety's ea81 build

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 8:33 pm

Rumour is true,

Firstly got to thank all those on the forum and particularly El Freddo that attended today and Tambox with his on the phone advise that proved so valuable. thankyou to all.

At the end of the day, the dizzy was 180 degrees out. Prior to that the kill switch was off and prior to that leads from dizzy to coil were on the wrong terminals. Some actions I took that still didnt produce spark didnt make sense. Nevertheless it started (sorry no video was too busy fixing issues but maybe next start up)

Once started it ran smooth at 2000rpm. But it ran to 103 degrees on the temp gauge and we shut it down. There was a air block at the top radiator hose and only one thermatic fan to cool it. There is no radiator cap on the Alfa radiator. Instead there is a pressurised expansion tank off the heater hoses. This has proved in the past problematic when the radiator was at the front of the trike. There is a bleed hose at the other end of the top of the radiator but that doesnt bleed all the air out.

So El freddo's suggestion to move the expansion tank to near the top radiator hose and tap it there is going to be done immediately. We fitted a second thermatic fan but can swap that 10 inch one for a 12 inch one I have.

So after some running the timing was checked (was spot on 8 degrees), mixtures x2 done (ended up nice at around 2 turns out), idle needed no adjustment at 850-900 rpm (for auto). It runs very smooth but am going to tackle that tank issue before I go further.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 11:09 pm

tambox wrote::)Did I hear a rumour that Tweety is chirping!!!!!!:)

WHAT?! I CAN'T HEAR ANYTHING OVER THE PURRING EA81!!!

Awesome day. Glad I could help out!

Can't wait to see it back on the road - just be sure to get those little things sorted before heading off. I'd love to help out with the wearing in process too

Cheers

Bennie

PS - I'm not sure that you'll sleep tonight, earlier today I thought you'd sleep great, but now I reckon you'll be thinking hard about the little things that need sorting to get out on that open road! Tell me I'm wrong!!!

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 11:53 pm

still awake.....1am

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 11:55 pm

Scott, thinking of putting that thermatic fan sensor back in the radiator location and placing that brass fitting in the sensor location. cn get a 90 degree barb 5/8" end for overflow tank....yeh the mind never stops.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 12:11 am

In my mind, by putting the thermo fan switch back in the radiator location you'll delay it's reaction as it's lower in the radiator position than on the engine outlet/rad inlet pipe.

But that 90 barb should do the job nicely - just make sure it's on the high side of that adaptor in the middle of that J pipe.

Cheers

Bennie

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 12:12 am

Tweety wrote:still awake.....1am

And Hahaha... I knew it!!!

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 7:35 am

Don't forget Tony, thanks are also due to yourself for including your readers in the trials and tribulations of your project. You are contributing to the forum - keeping it going.

I'm trying to think of other contributors of projects going on, and can only think of Sam and his BlueBullet and Brumby - at the moment. Any others care to name a few more ??

Am I wrong in thinking that a sensor on the metal of the engine, rather than in the coolant, is suitable for switch on switch off temps for fans ?
Not happy with the 95C ON temp of one fan on my Brumby, have been using the $14 ebay temp control unit to scream at 92C then manually turn fans on, forget they are on sometimes

but seems to be suitable. When I get around to it , will decide if another controller will do both fans, or another two stage controller do the fans in stages and keep current alarm unit for a higher temp.

Just not had much luck in finding the two stage controller on ebay

My luck has changed !!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dual-Digital ... 462ba23d74

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:15 am

I had a digital controller. It is mounted on the dash. But the probe stuffed up and only use it for accurate temp gauge now.

I had two of them and both buggered up. So, went simple and got a traditional sensor in the radiator, 89 switch on 82 switch off. Plus a Hudson sensor 95 degrees. Was hooked up to a truck reversing alarm. worked well as that alarm came on slowly as it approached 95.

Had that alarm disconnected and rode off on a test ride once and lost it. They are $50 on ebay just ordered another one $37 free post. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NARVA-12-24- ... 1154893830

Hudson sensors http://www.howardinstruments.com.au/pro ... 26146a0d85

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 6:08 pm

So I've heard that Tony was up until 6am this morning! I'm guessing you were in the shed all night?

Looking at the pic you sent me this morning (can't post as it's on the phone) - it's looking really good and I'm glad the larger fan fitted in there. I'm now keen to see if it holds the temps down when stationary pulling 2000rpm for the run in process.

Also liked the change to the EA82 thermostat housing with the shorter radiator hose setup. Are you now waiting on a length of 5/8th heater hose to fit the reservoir into the system?

Really want to be hanging out at your place this week to help work on Tweety. Bloody work

Cheers

Bennie

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 6:57 pm

Some interesting news.

When we ran the engine yesterday it was without several wires on the coil. We had the wire form the ignition switch and black/white on the +ve side and we had only the dizzy yellow wire son -ve. And it ran fine. Today I wanted to replace those "several wires" only the two coil connections. Wires included the tacho and electric fuel pump etc to negative. But one, attached to negative when engine running- cut out the engine.

Traced it to that fuse that blew up at the front fuse box. Bit confused from here on though. For the moment I'm leaving it off and bare. Everything else works fine.

Running with the small fan plus the 12 inch fan as a pusher didnt change the temps much and sat at 98 degrees. I ordered a heater core last night from ebay the size that will fit my other 10 inch fan and will be mounted at the side of the battery with some breeze directly hitting it. should keep temps down. Of course the temp gauge sensor is at the very top of the thermostat housing and is the hottest point. I think you are right Scott, I'm going to get some discrepancy in temps because the thermatic fan switch is half way down the radiator now and not where the temp guage sender is.

Tomorrow I to install a scoop. Planning on an easy to take off air scoop under the sump. and take a video for you guys

Al in all very happy and yes....was 5:58am I got to bed.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 5:49 pm

Test ride today. lesson - check brakes before reversing out of garage. driveway is on a slope and if no brakes then trouble. Trike has been sitting for months without ridden. Brake cylinder pistons were cleaned and bled but when I reversed I only had the front brake working. Trike, 640 kgms reversing along a dirt drive with only front brake working means it skidded along ineffective and not slowing trike down at all. Luckily as the trike approached the corner of the house a redgum sleeper stopped it from going any further.
Regardless on these rural roads I gave it a short run. Firstly the engine was far quieter than previous. the 4x exhaust tail pipes had 4" long motorcycle baffles and I'd taken them out, welded in some washers and wrapped them in fibreglass. Much quieter. nice.

The engine, although not floored of course had heaps of power. Bare in mind the trike has now a new accelerator cable, carbie etc so the throttle operation is light and easy. Start up from cold is a breeze and will idle without choke at 500 rpm immediately is desired.

The trike suspension also had been revamped while the engine was away. Spacers that were previously between the rear airbags and the IRS arms were raised 10mm meaning 30mm higher the vehicle was off the ground...why? because I had inside tyre wear through excess negative camber. Once I arrived home I took a step back to observe the wheels. Very slight but noticably positive camber. Exactly what I wanted. Once Debbie, Rosie (Foxy weighs 3kgms lol) and the camper is towed, it should be neutral camber. great
What needs doing? that air scoop under the sump had been done. Engine runs bit cooler when riding. those brakes might need bleeding. And the digital speedo wires. they might need to go on positive of the coil me thinks.

Tweety lives again. Video shortly.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 6:33 pm

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 7:36 pm

Tweety now has more power and less brakes, well done

Great to see it seems to be working out, there were so many variables in what you have done.

Good job.

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:09 pm

Nice job Tweety an company. Good Lord though mate, get some sleep!

Regards

Doug

Post by **TOONGA** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:24 pm

Looks and sounds great ... one question... is there only one connected hose running off that expansion tank? The others appear to be in a loop to the tank.

TOONGA

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:55 pm

HI Jules,
The expansion tank has 4 inlet/outlets. It's from a Hyundai i30, the same car we have. looked ideal so bought one long time ago.
There is one large 3/4" outlet one one low corner goes to top radiator hose for air blocks etc this hose was connected to the heater pipes from the engine but El Freddo and I had an air block at the top of the top radiator hose hence change in location eliminating air blocks, , , one for overflow when pressure exceeds 13lbs and the two you see one at the bottom one at the top are indeed connected so as to see the fluid level easier when green or red coolant is used. The tank itself is too cloudy a colour to see the level and one wants to glance at it from the rear to ensure the coolant is at the right level. A warning light for low fluid level would be good.

The exhaust washers "hole" were worked out mathematically so as to collectively suit the stock Brumby exhaust. Cant recall the Brumby exhaust size now but say its 1.5 inches then the 4 tailpipe washers in area are the same.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 9:21 pm

Awesome mate!! I'm jealous that you were out riding today while I was stuck in an office

Really good to hear that the temps dropped while riding. Hopefully this will continue when loaded and towing in the warm weather!

Need me to drop in this weekend for some, err, engine wear in riding?

Also, don't forget to feather the throttle a number of times for the initial ring bed in process. This needs to be done under load.

So, how many k's will be clocked this week? I think I'm free Tuesday night for a ride

Although, I'm not sure Deb would be too happy to be left at home trikeless!

Cheers

Bennie

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 9:29 pm

Hi Scott

Got a couple of needs first- get the back brakes working. likely just a bleed, want to get that heater core installed and speedo cable might go on positive coil, whereas when on negative the engine cut out and was likely one of the things to blame for fail to start before you arrived.
But rest assured Shepparton is the first destination. will keep you in the loop.

you still are the only one on the forum to ride Tweety. Tambox rode on him but only on the back seat while holding a switch board measuring readings from the SPFI system....haha.... he'll get his chance. Tony

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 10:17 pm

awesome news and we didn't have to wait until February 2015 !!

Think I have just found that my EA81 feels strongest at lightest of throttle, will cruise up a long incline at 90 to 100 kph - lightest of throttle in top. Not sure if it is the EA82 spfi inlet or my latest leanings of gas tune. Waiting to hear of your builds assessment and quieten the 38/38 naysayers

I like your wisdom in only declaring the pooches tare weight

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Tue Dec 16, 2014 12:43 pm

Ha

yes forgot about the 38/38 and its effect on light throttle. I think when I take the trike to Bendigo for its engineers certificate, by then it would have been run in, I'll do some economy calculations.

I've done a hell of a lot of reading on the 38/38 carb. It is commonly seen as "big" and "too big" for the ea81. This has yet to be confirmed. But it is being used by Datsum 1200 owners ??? Gemini owners ??? etc up to Jeep owners.

And we have the larger manifold, higher compression etc.
I share that same interest Jonno.

By the way, I'm not happy to use that master blaster coil with its 4700 ohms putting the module under more risk of failure. Anyone recommend a buy off the shelf Autobarn/supercheap coil I can buy for late model ea81.? And what to watch for when buying one eg no resister markings?