Hi guyz. Has any one had there rear diff welded on there
Subaru L series.
Does it effect how the car runs on the road.
And does it help much for 4wding.
Is there any thing I would have to wach for.
And is it sumthing I could get done. Or would I have to
Do it my self. Thanks for any advice.
subaru L series rear diff weld. advice
I don't have a welded diff in my Subaru, but I do in my other car. It will drag the rear tyres around corners so they wear out pretty fast, and the rear can spin out in the wet, though not as much as with a rear wheel drive car.
It should be pretty useful for 4wding when you are not breaking cv joints and axle stubs, but I will leave that for someone with a weldy in a Subaru to give you better information.
It should be pretty useful for 4wding when you are not breaking cv joints and axle stubs, but I will leave that for someone with a weldy in a Subaru to give you better information.

- El_Freddo
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I had one back in my unlifted days. It was point and shoot until you lost traction.
I DIY'd the weld with my uncle, just don't put too much heat into the bearings, best to remove the centre to weld as it makes it super easy to clean up any splatter before install.
Shave the diff stubs about 5-7mm so you can A) replace CV shafts easier when needed and B) remove the driver's side CV shaft for on road use. All you do is jack up the rear wheel to fit the shaft. I used to use cable ties to keep them in place, worked a treat!
The trick will be for you to remove the CV shafts if you've never done them before, I bet you'll find them rusted on. A slide hammer works well in this situation.
I didn't have the pleasure of busting a CV shaft, but I was on the stock tyre size and didn't drive on road with them in unless I was commuting between tracks or it was wet after a trip - I just drove home carefully and didn't get it sideways or anything stupid. I always carried spare CV shafts and a diff stub axle too - I've seen them sheer off in videos.
Cheers
Bennie
I DIY'd the weld with my uncle, just don't put too much heat into the bearings, best to remove the centre to weld as it makes it super easy to clean up any splatter before install.
Shave the diff stubs about 5-7mm so you can A) replace CV shafts easier when needed and B) remove the driver's side CV shaft for on road use. All you do is jack up the rear wheel to fit the shaft. I used to use cable ties to keep them in place, worked a treat!
The trick will be for you to remove the CV shafts if you've never done them before, I bet you'll find them rusted on. A slide hammer works well in this situation.
I didn't have the pleasure of busting a CV shaft, but I was on the stock tyre size and didn't drive on road with them in unless I was commuting between tracks or it was wet after a trip - I just drove home carefully and didn't get it sideways or anything stupid. I always carried spare CV shafts and a diff stub axle too - I've seen them sheer off in videos.
Cheers
Bennie