Forum tickle - happy xmas!
- steptoe
- Master Member
- Posts: 11582
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
Forum tickle - happy xmas!
ho ho ho
- Proton mouse
- Junior Member
- Posts: 378
- Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:35 pm
- Location: Diagonally parked in a parallel universe
- Silverbullet
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2920
- Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:20 pm
- Location: Adelaide
Merry Christmas for the Brumby new EA82 Exedy clutch, Flywheel mod to suit and finally enough time off to fit the five speed , Power steering (Still Armstrong with the lines looped till I sus out fitting an EA 81 Turbo style pump though) New water Pump and Suzuki GTI seats.
Not looking forward to drilling the crossmember plate spotwelds though, Hate wearing hot metal shavings.
Maxima Alternator and EA82/EA81 Turbo type Power Steer pump soon but not this time too much to do already.
Not looking forward to drilling the crossmember plate spotwelds though, Hate wearing hot metal shavings.
Maxima Alternator and EA82/EA81 Turbo type Power Steer pump soon but not this time too much to do already.
aha, what year model Suzuki GTi seats there coxy? I looked at some recent models expecting to see the entire seat and track lining up with Subaru Brumby mounting holes and things look very different
Or is it that these seats fit the Brumby seat tracks ? My seats are just horrible and need an update ....your help will be appreciated. Aha, what tailshaft did you use - centre bearing from L series ? Love to hear what you used

member since 10january2014 #6191
- Silverbullet
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2920
- Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:20 pm
- Location: Adelaide
Nubaru wrote:aha, what year model Suzuki GTi seats there coxy? I looked at some recent models expecting to see the entire seat and track lining up with Subaru Brumby mounting holes and things look very differentOr is it that these seats fit the Brumby seat tracks ? My seats are just horrible and need an update ....your help will be appreciated. Aha, what tailshaft did you use - centre bearing from L series ? Love to hear what you used
Mk 1 Suzuki GTI the smaller lighter one, Can you believe they were a hundred odd kilo's lighter than the later ones and smaller hence seats narrower.
Mazda Astina seats wil fit with some bracket creep.
Ie mod the brackets to make the seats fit the brumby runners and clean and lube the runners befor you refit them so they work as designed.
Tailshaft is L series two piece converted to replaceable uni joints out of Disco's Ellie too good to waste currently making a mounting crossmember to suit.
Really annoyed as I cannot find my L series Clutch cable for the conversion I hate trains and buses and am back at work on the 4th,Anyone in Sydney got a spare??
Cut off the MY 4WD selector shaft and welded it to the nylon bushed knuckle off the back of a spare L series gearbox after knocking out the two roll pins then with that section tigged to the adjustable MY 4WD selectoe shaft I can adjust both the front to rear position and even the side to side of the L series gearlever.
The rod along the side of the MY gearbox is adjustable and once you remove the selector knuckle off the rear of the L gearbox you can Tig it to the MY adjustable 4WD selector shaft and then just need to work out the rough length and weld a bush on to fit the gearbox end with the adjustment being at the Gearlever end.
Yes I know everyone just shortens the L series linkage but unless you nail it perfectly you have to either adapt or redo the thing again, This is so precise with just Nylon bushes no slop even compared to normal L series let alone that MY after 400 odd thousand Kays.
The adjustable linkage is so I can make sure the length of the L series original lever will be correct so everything lines up perfectly to fit into all the original centre console.
Regarding the modification to use the MV original transmission mounting yes you slot the mounts a lot more on one side than the other but unless you modify the LH MV mount by taking a pie shaped cut 8mm at the bottom and tapering to nothing at the top to change the angle the LH gearbox mount will be under to much stress and will fail.
Remember these mounts sit vertical in the original form so duplicate that for best results
With the change to the original Passenger side (LH) mount so the OE rubber mounting sits vertical where it bolts on to the steel mount on the gearbox there is no stress on the rubber and the mounts drop straight into the original holes on the gearbox crossmember, Much better.
Mountings for the L series two piece propshaft much as Steptoe has done plates 6mm thick on the bottom that sit flat with the floor and about 30mm spacer on the drivers side mount.
Unlike BYB where they went to an incredible amount of trouble to build a crossmember which is a good idea but not if you do not have the car mounted on a Rotisserie, Working upside down sux big time.
Future plans in this area are to manufacture an extension inside the cabin along the lines of the crossmember the seats mount to at the front.
Running a similar structure back to where the upper flat plate sits above the floor, This will take the form of a Tee section running off the seat crossmember and running back off it to pick up the propshaft mounting plate with a brace at 45 degrees extending along the upper face of the seat crossmember added to the rearward channel section so the propshaft will be fully supported but the mods needed will be a lot easier as they simply require removing the seats and fabricating and welding downward not upside down a lot easier to do.
Who says a crossmember has to be under the car to work in this application, Bugger that too bloody hard sunshine.
Finally the starter motor spacing 4mm is correct but I noticed that because the starter motor register no longer locates in the gearbox if not careful the depth of mesh of the starter pinion in the ring gear could be an issue.
like many I am just using washers at the moment but I think I might see if I can chuck a piece of alloy up in the four jaw and make a plate with a working register and use some hardened dowel pins into the starter motor to make sure it locates correctly.
Full L series clutch and MV Brumby flywheel ground to a 21mm step compared to the original 23mm step for the pressure plate mounting face worked perfectly with a new Exedy clutch there is about 12mm of clutch release arm freeplay, pretty much as it was when the last original brumby clutch was replaced.
I have noted a few different measurements quoted around the traps and yes there would be some leeway but this works like factory.
I note a few have considered doing it this way but I think this is the first confirmation it works OK, I know Silver Bullet was doing the same but unsure if it has seen service yet and Steptoe was also considering the same mod it is the way to go.
I have never considered it smart to file out the flywheel mounting bolt holes to use an EA 82 flywheel and then have to clearance the EA 81 bellhousing despite many being lucky to have it work reliably there is a reason Race Engines not only use good fitting flywheel bolts but also often add hardened Dowel Pins as extra security a 15 to 40 pound Flywheel that comes loose with a hardened ring gear to machine its way to freedom like a Mad Buzzsaw could easily put you in a wheel chair with missing lower extremities, Not worth the risk.
Regarding the modification to use the MV original transmission mounting yes you slot the mounts a lot more on one side than the other but unless you modify the LH MV mount by taking a pie shaped cut 8mm at the bottom and tapering to nothing at the top to change the angle the LH gearbox mount will be under to much stress and will fail.
Remember these mounts sit vertical in the original form so duplicate that for best results
With the change to the original Passenger side (LH) mount so the OE rubber mounting sits vertical where it bolts on to the steel mount on the gearbox there is no stress on the rubber and the mounts drop straight into the original holes on the gearbox crossmember, Much better.
Mountings for the L series two piece propshaft much as Steptoe has done plates 6mm thick on the bottom that sit flat with the floor and about 30mm spacer on the drivers side mount.
Unlike BYB where they went to an incredible amount of trouble to build a crossmember which is a good idea but not if you do not have the car mounted on a Rotisserie, Working upside down sux big time.
Future plans in this area are to manufacture an extension inside the cabin along the lines of the crossmember the seats mount to at the front.
Running a similar structure back to where the upper flat plate sits above the floor, This will take the form of a Tee section running off the seat crossmember and running back off it to pick up the propshaft mounting plate with a brace at 45 degrees extending along the upper face of the seat crossmember added to the rearward channel section so the propshaft will be fully supported but the mods needed will be a lot easier as they simply require removing the seats and fabricating and welding downward not upside down a lot easier to do.
Who says a crossmember has to be under the car to work in this application, Bugger that too bloody hard sunshine.
Finally the starter motor spacing 4mm is correct but I noticed that because the starter motor register no longer locates in the gearbox if not careful the depth of mesh of the starter pinion in the ring gear could be an issue.
like many I am just using washers at the moment but I think I might see if I can chuck a piece of alloy up in the four jaw and make a plate with a working register and use some hardened dowel pins into the starter motor to make sure it locates correctly.
Full L series clutch and MV Brumby flywheel ground to a 21mm step compared to the original 23mm step for the pressure plate mounting face worked perfectly with a new Exedy clutch there is about 12mm of clutch release arm freeplay, pretty much as it was when the last original brumby clutch was replaced.
I have noted a few different measurements quoted around the traps and yes there would be some leeway but this works like factory.
I note a few have considered doing it this way but I think this is the first confirmation it works OK, I know Silver Bullet was doing the same but unsure if it has seen service yet and Steptoe was also considering the same mod it is the way to go.
I have never considered it smart to file out the flywheel mounting bolt holes to use an EA 82 flywheel and then have to clearance the EA 81 bellhousing despite many being lucky to have it work reliably there is a reason Race Engines not only use good fitting flywheel bolts but also often add hardened Dowel Pins as extra security a 15 to 40 pound Flywheel that comes loose with a hardened ring gear to machine its way to freedom like a Mad Buzzsaw could easily put you in a wheel chair with missing lower extremities, Not worth the risk.