ej diff into L

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:42 pm

putting a 4.44 vlsd diff into my L,pretty sure the diff will have the male stubbs[on the boat from japan].What drive shafts can be used are the L ones gunna fit onto the diff? Or is it a case of swapping inner c'vs like at the gearbox end?
Ta

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:50 pm

I'm also curious about this.

postie,

keep in mind there are two types of teh male ones- single spline on both sides and a twin tapered spline one and single spline on the other. founf this out the hard way.

jzk25 · Post by **jzk25** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:16 pm

If it has external stubs(from a gen 1 Legacy turbo) then it will fit the L series fine.

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 8:05 pm

Chris_Rogers wrote:I'm also curious about this.

postie,

keep in mind there are two types of teh male ones- single spline on both sides and a twin tapered spline one and single spline on the other. founf this out the hard way.

guess i'll find out what i got when it arrives in the country.apparently they just cut the driveshafts off in japan leaving a bit attached to the diff

stinky · Post by **stinky** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 8:23 pm

the_postie wrote:putting a 4.44 vlsd diff into my L,pretty sure the diff will have the male stubbs

Is it mating with an L gearbox? if so how are you dealing with the ratio differences ?

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 9:05 pm

Chris, I think you're talking about the female splines, the male splines were only available on the 1st Gen Liberties.

With the male splined diffs, use an L driveshaft with an L series rear inner CV on both ends. This will account for any difference in diff widths.

I haven't had this system under power yet, but I've been told from other sources that this is the fix.
With a female splined WRX diff in the back of my EJ20T sedan, the car would squat & this would cause the right side shaft to actually pull out of the WRX inner.

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 1:07 pm

stinky its going behind 4.44 tt auto so its a match.wagonist how were the driveshafts done when using the female style diff?

stinky · Post by **stinky** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 1:21 pm

Oh cool. so you're putting an EJ engine in as well ?

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 6:50 pm

the_postie wrote:wagonist how were the driveshafts done when using the female style diff?

WRX diff with WRX inner CVs, L series shafts & L series outers.

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 9:49 pm

You can just buy the stubs from Subaru to slide in there

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Sun Aug 13, 2006 12:06 pm

stinky wrote:Oh cool. so you're putting an EJ engine in as well ?

yeah i don't think the poor old ea82 will push that huge mother of a box.
dave i got some stubbs out of a ea auto box held in by circlips are these the same?

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Sun Aug 13, 2006 5:51 pm

Dont know to be honest but check to see if they go in snug or flop around when in

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 6:55 pm

Will, if you are wanting to know if the stubs you have from the auto box will fit the diff, then no they won't. Both models of rear lsd's have pairs of stubs. One side has two splines on it, while the other has only one.

If the diff you are getting has stubs, then your cv's will go straight on to it. If it has the cup style stubs then you need to pull your cups off your cv's and fit the new cups on to your existing cage/race.

Word of warning. Make sure you get the correct oil for the diff. It is not just any old 90 grade diff oil. You need to buy an oil to suit a viscous centre. You can use Castrol Mutitrax or similar. Subaru shop at Brendale also retail a synthetic oil for them too. I don't remember what brand it is, you would just have to ask them I suppose.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 7:40 pm

BYB-01 wrote:Will, if you are wanting to know if the stubs you have from the auto box will fit the diff, then no they won't. Both models of rear lsd's have pairs of stubs. One side has two splines on it, while the other has only one.

If the diff you are getting has stubs, then your cv's will go straight on to it. If it has the cup style stubs then you need to pull your cups off your cv's and fit the new cups on to your existing cage/race.

Word of warning. Make sure you get the correct oil for the diff. It is not just any old 90 grade diff oil. You need to buy an oil to suit a viscous centre. You can use Castrol Mutitrax or similar. Subaru shop at Brendale also retail a synthetic oil for them too. I don't remember what brand it is, you would just have to ask them I suppose.

ok you have just described my diff.
so if I can get the matching shafts (although all I need are the ends) then I'm set? have heard conflicting stories on swapping the ends onto L shafts- one says fine the other says they will come loose under a decent load.

thoughts?

also there is another variant I have found that has a set of splines per side - supposed to be the later one I'm lead to believe.

Oil I was aware of. they specify that in the books. still going to see subaru shop about a bottle of it though.

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 8:01 pm

I had all sorts of trouble with the later model diff in my Vortex. The diff with the cups not stubs that is. As already mentioned the right hand side would fall aprt every time I gave it a bootful. I did end up fixing it in the end. I did it at Sunspares one day. I honestly don't rememeber the combination I used but it was a mix of L series shafts, Legacy cup and I think it was a front circlip cut down to fit the rear.

I do remember using a larger diametre circlip in there. It is all still under the Vortex now. If I think about it next time I am out there I will have a look and see what the combo was. Once it was sorted out it never failed again.

Yes, the very late GDB diff has only one set of splines each side. I have got a GDB STi one sitting here in hiding that I will fit to a car one day. It is only 3.9 ratio though. Once I find a 4.111 or 4.444 crown that I can fit in to it I will be more keen to fit it. I dare say it will end up in the ute for the BYB BBQ this year though.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 8:44 pm

when you remember how you did it - let us know. I'm at the stage now.

85wrx · Post by **85wrx** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 9:02 pm

If you have a diff with male stubbs in it, can these be removed and fitted to the later model diff that has the stubbs as part of the inner cv joint.

That is what I am trying to do.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 9:36 pm

mine has female shafts going into it as brett described. thats the solution I'm looking for.

may hit up a driveshaft shop and see what they have to offer.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 9:58 pm

wagonist wrote:WRX diff with WRX inner CVs, L series shafts & L series outers.

and this combo didn't snap?