Dual range EJ box + Pull clutch?

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 1:07 pm

I'm running a dual range AWD gearbox with the standard push type clutch.
I've had the pressure plate massively upgraded to hold the power of the EJ20+turbo motor. This is holding the power well but is proving very unsatisfactory in drivability. The pedal is very heavy and the friction point is right on the floor (sometimes underneath) which makes shifting gears quite difficult and also flogs out the synchos in the gearbox.

I want to change to a propper turbo Pull type clutch system but this seems to only be available for the actual turbo gearboxes (GT Lib, RS, WRX etc) which are all single range.

These are my options as far as I can see...

1 - I could buy a VERY expensive Push-Pull convertor available from some performance shops so I can use my existing dual range gearbox. This is too expensive really (well over $2000 for the converter alone).
2 - I could change to a propper turbo gearbox. This sacrifices low range gearing.

My question is.....Option 3.
Get a propper turbo gearbox (from a wrx or whatever) and somehow swap the rear diff housing from my existing AWD dual range box onto the turbo box. This will leave me with a WRX turbo gearbox with low range gearing.
The rear housings look like they will swap over okay but I'm not so sure about the actual low range selector as this comes out of a port in the actual bell housing.

Any thoughts on that?
Or any other ideas on how I can get a Dual range AWD gearbox with a Pull type turbo clutch?

Thanks.

Xtreme_RX · Post by **Xtreme_RX** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 3:51 pm

You cant make a AWD (Single range) Turbo box in to a duel range there is no provision for the low gear set in the bell housing/front casing.

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 4:17 pm

you have an outback dual range box yeah??

didnt they have a hydraulic clutch setup?

Lapsed · Post by **Lapsed** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 8:08 pm

andrew how often do you actually use the low range???

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 8:11 pm

And how much gearing will you lose considering the turbo boxes are available in 4.11 and 4.44 final drive, as opposed to your current 3.9?

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 8:17 pm

You can't adapt a couple of hydrualic pistons to your current setup?

I've seen it done with old ford boxes.

Jordan.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:01 am

Vincent - Yes it does use a Hydraulic master and slave cylinder to operate the clutch fork. This doesn't really mean anything though because the problem is the fact that it is a Push type clutch inside, not pull.

Tim - I'm already running 4.111. It's fine for touring on highways etc (after all this is the ultimate aim originally for the Outbacks I think). I guess the gear ratios themselves are adjusted to compensate.

Lapsed - I use the low range all the time in rocky terrains when I need to tread carefully and go slow.

Hmm looks like mabey the Push-Pull convertor may be the only way! Either that or....Option 4.....TT Auto ! (seriously considering it)

MY_STI · Post by **MY_STI** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 7:53 am

Have an RS box that has some unused 'provision' for the low range selector etc. So I assume there would be others.
It would still require precision modification, but should not be beyond the skills of a well equiped machine shop.

The low range geaset is in the front of the gearbox, above the diff. While its apart you could put the L series low range in !

Maybe you could play with the pedal and get some more travel out of it, if you don't mind it sitting higher.

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 8:32 am

Another little guess here, but why not get a longer clutch clevis? If the pedal's always in the floor this has to help.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:43 pm

The hydraulic system is already self adjusting. Even if I back the adjustment back it doesn't get alot worse. I've got it at maximum thrust adjustment now but yeah I can get abit more out of it with a longer clevis. I'm going to do it soon as a stop gap measure.
But I still intend to upgrade to a pull clutch somehow or other as this is the fundamental problem with my car. I hate having to push parts way past their intended design parameters just to get standard performance and ultimately less reliability. Best to have a clutch thats designed to take the power in the first place and upgrade from there if I need to.
Mabey I will have a close look at an RS gearbox to find this provision for low range... and definitely thats a great opportunity to get L series low range.

Of course this will push the limits of the gears if I decide to dump the clutch on full boost while vertically pinned between some massive boulders offroad...

TW83 · Post by **TW83** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:33 pm

Can you not find a multi plate clutch?

Are these only available for a pull type clutch setup?

Sorry for my ignorance

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:42 pm

I think you can fit Hydraulic on dual range box.. Ive heard someone did that, but im rocking my brains who and where... If i remember I'll get back in here.. maybe as RSLC web site?
Cheers
AP

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:57 pm

Mine already is a hydraulic system. This has no relation to the type of clutch (push or pull) at all.
It's just the method of operating the clutch fork.

Co-incidentely most Subarus with a Pull type clutch also use a Hydraulic system to operate it - there in lies the confusion. My push clutch came from a 1999 Outback which is aparently quite rare in the fact it uses a Hydraulic system to operate it. Subaru could just as easily have used a cable.

Thanks TW83 I'll have to look into those.

Oversteer · Post by **Oversteer** » Sat Jan 20, 2007 1:59 pm

Grinder, welder, bfh, drill, jigsaw, dead turbo box, wella ! pull clutch d/r !

...may be feasable, should be enough room on the d/r bellhousing to install a pin hole and mounts/bushes !

OS