The Brumbyrunner Project
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- Outback bloke
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- Clearwater99
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There is one thing about these little cars .. they are appealing to the eye ... they are fun to drive ... and they are a personal build that is very satisfying ..
long live the tiny subi with a whole lot of attitude ..
basicly i regard these little bugger like a motor bike .. because every single thing i have driven since i stopped riding bikes has not had any comparison to the adrenalin that can be given from 2 wheels with grunt .. till i got me tiny little car with some attitude ..
a happy phill ..
up it mate .. and enjoy
long live the tiny subi with a whole lot of attitude ..
basicly i regard these little bugger like a motor bike .. because every single thing i have driven since i stopped riding bikes has not had any comparison to the adrenalin that can be given from 2 wheels with grunt .. till i got me tiny little car with some attitude ..
a happy phill ..
up it mate .. and enjoy
Speiling mistakes .. me never !
that looks insane!!!!
no more subarus
[/SIZE] [/color][/B][/color][/SIZE][/color]http://community.webshots.com/user/D3V1L9
[/SIZE] [/color][/B][/color][/SIZE][/color]http://community.webshots.com/user/D3V1L9
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- brumbyrunner
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You've seen all the pics I have of the rear guards.bluesteel wrote:could you please please please post some detailed pics of how you did the rear guards
cheers
What do you want to know?
What size tyre are you trying to fit and how much lift?
I cut 100mm out of the original wheel arch all the way around. Then I opened it up at the rear another 100mm or so because the tyre was getting close on compression. Then filled in the gaps.
ive had the double skin cut in the back of the brumby (much like yours, but not quite as far) for a while now and cant get my head around an easy way to join the 2 skins back up
i was thinking it could be easier to cut the inside skin and run a new bit of steel over the wheel, kinda like tubbing it
so really i was just after a pic from under the wheel arch showing what bits are new steel and where its welded on
im not a competent welder and i wouldnt be able to do it unless i had a heap of practice first, so i want to have all the bits cut out ready to go for when i have to take it to someoen to be done
oh.. 4" lift and 30" muds
cheers
i was thinking it could be easier to cut the inside skin and run a new bit of steel over the wheel, kinda like tubbing it
so really i was just after a pic from under the wheel arch showing what bits are new steel and where its welded on
im not a competent welder and i wouldnt be able to do it unless i had a heap of practice first, so i want to have all the bits cut out ready to go for when i have to take it to someoen to be done
oh.. 4" lift and 30" muds
cheers

- brumbyrunner
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Bluesteel, the best advice I can give is to take it to a panel beater. I would have if I could have found someone that would do it the way I wanted and straight away.
There are 2 big problems to contend with. 1 is the multiple angles that the new sheetmetal is trying to match up with and the other is the outer skin contorting as it reacts to the heat of welding.
But if you have to do it yourself and dont care what it looks like, try thin strips maybe 1" to 3" wide and either overlap them or shaping them to fit. The inside wall of the ute tub is vertical so is a good place to start. The hardest area is the bulge of the inner guard at the rear of the wheelwell. Where the fuel filler runs on the RHS. This will be an addional problem for you as you will still need the filler line in place. On mine, the bottem thirds of the wheel arch dont have a lip anymore. This actuall made it easier as you can just run the new sheet past the outer guard and then cut it back to suit.
If I did it again (and I probably will) I would completely tub the whole wheelwell while the shell was on the rotisserie using a spun blank similar to the ones on the front. I would not use any body lift and then cut the guards for 33"s or 35"s.
Aren't you doing this on an MY wagon? What have you done with the back doors?
There are 2 big problems to contend with. 1 is the multiple angles that the new sheetmetal is trying to match up with and the other is the outer skin contorting as it reacts to the heat of welding.
But if you have to do it yourself and dont care what it looks like, try thin strips maybe 1" to 3" wide and either overlap them or shaping them to fit. The inside wall of the ute tub is vertical so is a good place to start. The hardest area is the bulge of the inner guard at the rear of the wheelwell. Where the fuel filler runs on the RHS. This will be an addional problem for you as you will still need the filler line in place. On mine, the bottem thirds of the wheel arch dont have a lip anymore. This actuall made it easier as you can just run the new sheet past the outer guard and then cut it back to suit.
If I did it again (and I probably will) I would completely tub the whole wheelwell while the shell was on the rotisserie using a spun blank similar to the ones on the front. I would not use any body lift and then cut the guards for 33"s or 35"s.
Aren't you doing this on an MY wagon? What have you done with the back doors?