What oil do you use?

Get the most out of your Engine / Gearbox with these handy hints ...
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subalex
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Post by subalex » Sun Jul 01, 2007 9:15 pm

Interesting read all this is.

I've been using Shell Helix (normal type for around $18/5litres) in my L-series EA-82 for the last 40,000 and enjoyed a quiet engine. Then I changed brand to the Castrol GTXII about 7000k ago and it's been on and off with the noises. Next change I'm going back to the Helix. I tried Helix designed for old motors and it was just too thick and made it sluggish. Mine's on 318,000k's now.

As for the gearbox and rear diff - I've been going with the Valvoline Duragear and relatively happy so far. I'd still like the change from 5th to 4th to be smoother though so I'm interested in opinions here too.
'91 Sportswagon - 3" lifted, 14" speedys, 27" Nankangs + lots of small details improved. Wouldn't mind some extra grunt from an EJ.

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Subafury
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Post by Subafury » Mon Jul 02, 2007 12:01 am

well last service i used penrite 10 (10w-50) and now ive just put in penrite 30 (20w-60) which has a little more tappet noise than the previous and it lasts for longer before it goes away (due to being a thicker oil).
and ive just heard that the "lifter free" additive is bad for subaru's as it destroys some little rubber seat. but yeh i dont like lifter noise.
for diff i use recommended valvoline 85w90. and for g/box i will use recommended castrol multitrax.
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Matatak
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Post by Matatak » Mon Jul 02, 2007 12:42 am

well ive only changed my oil once and i used the Repco Modern Engine oil which is a 15W/40 but i cant comment on any lifter noise lol as EA81 dont have lifters if im right (or it doesnt have any tick i dunno)
the gearbox i just put in a Titan 75W/90 Gear Oil that we use at work in the cars which im probably gonna use for the Diff as ive heard that they both take a 80W/90 (according to this program at work from company called Fuchs) so its close enough for me
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Wagon is no longer....:(

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Subafury
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Post by Subafury » Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:48 pm

i tried to shut up my lifters by using some of that additive stuff. didnt make f/a difference. waste of money. im still having some lifter tick even when car is warm, so im gonna try a 15w-40 or similar at the next change.
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jsubie
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Post by jsubie » Sun Sep 30, 2007 5:34 pm

I've just put in L-series Mobil Super 4x4 10w-40 runs quieter
:):confused::p:mad::confused:;):D:-D:???::p

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timmo
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Post by timmo » Sun Sep 30, 2007 6:21 pm

Subafury wrote:i tried to shut up my lifters by using some of that additive stuff. didnt make f/a difference. waste of money. im still having some lifter tick even when car is warm, so im gonna try a 15w-40 or similar at the next change.
have you tried replacing the seals on the oil pump?

timmo
L series wagon EA82T (RIP)
'92 Liberty RS Turbo
GU Patrol Ute
Honda XR400R

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Alex
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Post by Alex » Sun Sep 30, 2007 6:39 pm

that lifter stuff worked a treat for my old motor.

alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

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Matatak
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Post by Matatak » Sun Sep 30, 2007 7:18 pm

Lifter free is not gonna be an easy fix all the time for noisy tappets
it usually only works when theyre clogged and can sometimes clean em out
when theyre old and failing etc it cant work coz it cant exactly rejuvanate them back to brand new.

neway as for my oil in the EJ engine
im using Fuchs GT Plus 20w50. thinking next time ill put in the Performance plus 15w40 though.
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stinky
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Post by stinky » Sun Sep 30, 2007 8:14 pm

I use Mobile 1 gold fully synth 5w 40(? i think, maybe 50? ) in the ea81t.
'91 brumby, EJ-Turbo with VOSChip, 2" lift, 15" superlites, Dual Range AWD.

'93 Subaru Legacy, 2.2 auto, automatic seatbelts, LHD.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Sep 30, 2007 9:28 pm

My lifter tick goes once the oil seems to be up to a certain temp. After driving for half an hour off road its gone and won't come back as long as the engine doesn't go cold. The other way i tried as an experiment the other day was to drive home in third, about 10mins at 3000 rpm... It worked, so i'm guessing that its the oil temp that is the player here.

My oil seals were replaced on the oil pump during the rebuild, along with the rotors - you can here the other lifters fill up immediately on start up.

Fun and games when you have dodgy lifters.

Bennie
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00outback
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Post by 00outback » Sun Sep 30, 2007 9:46 pm

I use Castrol GTX 3 15w/40 in my subys.

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Alex
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Post by Alex » Sun Sep 30, 2007 9:49 pm

ive got penrite HPR40 in the wagon with ej22, and HPR5 in the liberty.

cant fault them, great oil

alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

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Matatak
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Post by Matatak » Sun Sep 30, 2007 9:56 pm

Alex wrote:ive got penrite HPR40 in the wagon with ej22, and HPR5 in the liberty.

cant fault them, great oil

alex
wts tha viscositys of those ones?
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Wagon is no longer....:(

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Alex
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Post by Alex » Sun Sep 30, 2007 9:59 pm

HPR5 is 5w/40

HPR40 is 25w/70

i once put hpr50 in the wagon but found it to be wayy to thick. actually a noticable power loss.

alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

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AlpineRaven
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Post by AlpineRaven » Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:10 am

Since my Liberty was new - it always had/used Castrol Magnetic, but thinking about changing to different oil but don't know what I will use... EJ22 Liberty at 257,000kms.
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
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rtcb65
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oil

Post by rtcb65 » Mon Oct 01, 2007 8:12 am

As a newby, What i say dont mean much. I use castrol GTX2 and a additive called MOREYS . I have found it to aid in the life of the engine. I have pulled an engine apart which had a bugged oil filter on it ( did not filter , filter element crushed to one side so oil went round filter element) and there was not a mark on any part of an engine componant. eg: bore, crank, bearings etc .
rtcb65
------------------
Redneck Rick.

1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products


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The Bigfella
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Post by The Bigfella » Mon Oct 01, 2007 2:29 pm

The whole thought of additives gives me the heebie jeebies. An oil manufacturer cooks a brew up - then you decide to stick some sauce in to make it better? Good luck.

I run a BMW E34 M5 (among other vehicles) and two of us blew cars up at Winton last year - one had put additives in his oil and the general consensus when they pulled it down was an oil-failure ..... $15,000 later.... (mine was a bodgy head gasket repair by a supposed BMW-trained mechanic).

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rtcb65
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Post by rtcb65 » Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:42 pm

So you are saying that you dont use inhibitor in ya radiator , or another way to look at it using your way, dont you use salt or pepper.
rtcb65
------------------
Redneck Rick.

1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products


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r00fi
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Post by r00fi » Tue Oct 02, 2007 3:35 pm

Mobil 1.........
Subaru RX Turbo (engine out AGAIN!)
Ford XF Panelvan EEC-IV (rusting)
Ford Escort RS1800 GP4 (in pieces)
Van Diemen RF89 (Sold, finished and racing)
Softride Powerwing 650 (working fine)

blackcadd

Post by blackcadd » Thu Oct 04, 2007 2:23 pm

Hi there group

In relation to the oil to use on the EA82, it will depend on climate you can usually get away with 20w40/50. But the ea 82 has a few problems the O rings and seals in the oil pump go hard so they need to be replaced as this can be where air gets sucked in, and airates the oil, the other is an O ring between the rockerbox and head.-2 If you are going to replace them you may as well replace timing belts too.
any other queries let us know

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