L Series Welded Diff

PRITCH39 · Post by **PRITCH39** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 7:39 pm

Hi all this is my first post so hello to all,

I am about to weld the rear diff on my 90 L series wagon, I was just wondering what the trick is for drive shaft removal i have heard that you need to cut something, is this correct? and if so what should i cut down.

Any help appreciated

Cheers Brian

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 7:58 pm

Hey Brian welcome to the forums
for the diff if your cars a DD then before u put it back in someppl grind a touch off the drivers side stub axle for easier removal and installation of drivers side shaft. (depends on how often ull be putting it in and tkaing it out)

i welded mine and have been able to get mine in and out jsut by rotatin the wheel till its at somesort of right way lol then it can just slide it back on and line it up then put the pin back in but it wuld be easier if i took a bit off the stub axle

i hope u no the fualts with a Welded Diff compared to LSDs and wt breaks more often etc
but neway that didnt stop me (i do expect something to break oneday but) and its been going awesome ever since i got it

Fatz · Post by **Fatz** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 8:35 pm

you will need to leave the outta cv joints in the hubs

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 8:50 pm

more liek ull need to leave the hubs in the wheels and keep the cvs on the removed shaft when driving on roads normally

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 11:22 am

Fatz wrote:you will need to leave the outta cv joints in the hubs

That would be for the front wouldn't it? Are we talking front diff or rear?

With the rear you will find the right shaft is easier to remove then the left. If you have the diff dropped as much as the lift (if you have a lift that is) you will find it hard to remove even when the wheel is right off the ground (the shockers don't have enough travel.) The same really applies to non lifted roos. To fix this you can either cut about 5mm off the right stub on the diff or you can make sure your swing arm crossmember is dropped (with a lift) more then 1" over the rear of the diff.
I'd just cut off the stub a bit.

You can put a double DOJ setup on your driveshafts (like the MY's have on the rear) and this will hopefully allow your shaft to compress more and thus be shorter so it comes off easier. I think all you need to do to do this is remove the CV joint from the end of the L series shaft and install a inner DOJ joint and cup onto it.. But I'm not sure, only heard of people doing this.

Fatz · Post by **Fatz** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 11:52 am

Yes i was talking about the fron cvs.
From what i read, i assumed he wanted a RWD setup?

Lapsed · Post by **Lapsed** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 11:55 am

I just remove the drivers side shaft when finished and put it back when off road. I also use a length of wire in the pin holes to ensure the shaft dsoesn't fall out. I jack the drivers rear tyre off the ground to line it all up at the start and to remove the tension after. hope this helps.

PRITCH39 · Post by **PRITCH39** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 5:41 pm

Thaks for all the info guys,

i think I will cut the end off the stub as sugested, this seems to be the easiest sollution.

Thanks again Brian.

PS are there any Northside brisbane guys that i can go out off road with.

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:02 pm

Fatz wrote:Yes i was talking about the fron cvs.
From what i read, i assumed he wanted a RWD setup?

Topic asks about welding a L series Diff.. I'm pretty sure you wouldn't do that for a RWD setup.....

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:14 pm

I would!! heheheh **evil grin**

bluesteel · Post by **bluesteel** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 11:14 pm

i would too....

oh and i ran an rx like that for a bit too

(dangerous in the wet)

D3V1L · Post by **D3V1L** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:25 am

AndrewT wrote:I would!! heheheh **evil grin**

HAHAHAHAHAHA SO WOULD I!!!!!!