Well i spoke to the radiator guy. He reckons an MY radiator, manual, would be the go. Its 6mm taller and a little shorter but has two cores. The outlet pipe would be sourced from a hilux or hiace radiator to retain the original radiator hoses...
Hope this helps some.
Cheers
Bennie
PS my rad will keep me going, but is pretty much cactus
Ellies cooling saga .
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discopotato03
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- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
If you see the MY and L rad side by side you'll find that its the mounting straps top and bottom that are taller/wider/bulkier . The MY bottom strap has a different mounting system to the L ie holes instead pins to fit the body .
Also the MY core has slightly larger and slightly fewer tubes and less gills (fins) per inch than a later or L type core .
More next week , cheers A .
Also the MY core has slightly larger and slightly fewer tubes and less gills (fins) per inch than a later or L type core .
More next week , cheers A .
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discopotato03
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2134
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
Latest update , we looked again and could not find any Impreza core of the same dimensions as an L core . After looking through catalogs of about 300 radiators I gave up trying to find a core that would fit L radiator tanks . The problem is that the core height has nothing to do with the length of the header plates so trying to find a suitable core is virtually impossible . The costs involved in doing a one off copper/brass or aluminium radiator are not justifiable to me anyway .
With what I know know if I was doing a high powered EJ conversion I would modify the top of the radiator support panel and fit a suitable vertical tube radiator . The trouble with the L series is that the opening is wide but not too tall and horizontal tanks take up the valuble height in a vertical tube radiator .
My solution will be to fit a complete new Koyo radiator as they are supposed to be to OEM standards which are better than locally made items . When it goes in I've been asked to take the old one back so it can be opened up and we all reckon its half or more blocked .
In a perfect world we are supposed to change our coolant and flush the cooling system on a 12 monthly/20 000 km basis to help stop sludging radiators etc up . Also the coolant can "go off" and do more harm than good to the system .
More later , A .
With what I know know if I was doing a high powered EJ conversion I would modify the top of the radiator support panel and fit a suitable vertical tube radiator . The trouble with the L series is that the opening is wide but not too tall and horizontal tanks take up the valuble height in a vertical tube radiator .
My solution will be to fit a complete new Koyo radiator as they are supposed to be to OEM standards which are better than locally made items . When it goes in I've been asked to take the old one back so it can be opened up and we all reckon its half or more blocked .
In a perfect world we are supposed to change our coolant and flush the cooling system on a 12 monthly/20 000 km basis to help stop sludging radiators etc up . Also the coolant can "go off" and do more harm than good to the system .
More later , A .
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discopotato03
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2134
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
Latest update , after new std Koyo rad I fitted a Davies Craig thermo switch to the water pumps inlet tube ie where the post rad hose connects to the engine . I did it on this side to control the radiator outlet temperature rater than its inlet temp . The variable switch gadget controls a relay that when closed connects the wires that used to plug into the radiators thermo switch . This means no mods to the original factory wiring and the plug can be refitted to the rads thermo switch if any need arose .
Ellie now runs a bit cool if anything because now that I can control the rads water temp the 160F thermostat regulates a bit low and the oil temp is down and this shows as higher consumption ie a bit over 500 instead of nearly 600 to the tank . Oil temp is in the mid 70's C . The next step is to refit the 170F thermostat and see how it pans out oil temp and consumption wise . At a later stage I want to remove the engine fan and replace it with something electric in front of the rad , Gee said he likes the Bosch one from old S series Mercs and that would be cheaper than a new Davies Craig . May even troll the wreackers for a 2nd hand D Crg .
Cheers A .
Ellie now runs a bit cool if anything because now that I can control the rads water temp the 160F thermostat regulates a bit low and the oil temp is down and this shows as higher consumption ie a bit over 500 instead of nearly 600 to the tank . Oil temp is in the mid 70's C . The next step is to refit the 170F thermostat and see how it pans out oil temp and consumption wise . At a later stage I want to remove the engine fan and replace it with something electric in front of the rad , Gee said he likes the Bosch one from old S series Mercs and that would be cheaper than a new Davies Craig . May even troll the wreackers for a 2nd hand D Crg .
Cheers A .
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discopotato03
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2134
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
Yes thats what the Odo reads . The consumption loss would almost certainly be due to cooler oil having more drag I reckon (oil sheer drag) . Mid 70's deg C (oil temp) is a bit low for normal driving in the suburbs . If it makes any difference the fuel I used until recently was Shell V power - not the 100 oct Racing one . Trying the Shell E10 ATM .
As for my driving style I short shift most things I drive and let the torque do the work . I believe slightly wider throttle openings at not a lot of revs increases an engines volumetric efficiency by raising its dynamic or effective compression ratio . EA's have pretty agricultural heads but they can breathe ok at lowish revs provided the throttle is open far enough not to limit flow too much . EA82T's have a really patheticly low 7.7:1 static compression ratio so they need all the help they can get . The header pipe at the "T" joint really is RS and I would expect to see a noticable consumption rise if fixed properly .
Anyhow a bit higher water temp should raise the oil temp and bypassing the throttlebodys water heating passage may very slightly drop the charge temp .
Cheers A .
As for my driving style I short shift most things I drive and let the torque do the work . I believe slightly wider throttle openings at not a lot of revs increases an engines volumetric efficiency by raising its dynamic or effective compression ratio . EA's have pretty agricultural heads but they can breathe ok at lowish revs provided the throttle is open far enough not to limit flow too much . EA82T's have a really patheticly low 7.7:1 static compression ratio so they need all the help they can get . The header pipe at the "T" joint really is RS and I would expect to see a noticable consumption rise if fixed properly .
Anyhow a bit higher water temp should raise the oil temp and bypassing the throttlebodys water heating passage may very slightly drop the charge temp .
Cheers A .