does lifter tick do damage?

SUBYDAZZ · Post by **SUBYDAZZ** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 8:55 pm

theclick wrote:Ever since doing the oil about 1000km ago, my car has been ticking like a clock on NOS.

Out of interest, did you do anything different on the last oil change than the previous one, even oil brand or viscosity?

theclick · Post by **theclick** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 4:17 pm

Well, it was the first oil change i have done to the car since owning it (only about 9 months) and have only driven 6000 km's with the oil change occuring at about 4000km. It was (apparently) done prior to purchasing the vehicle, so im not sure ifi did anything different to what they did...just a standard oil change i spose.

SUBYDAZZ · Post by **SUBYDAZZ** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 11:27 am

OK, no way to know then anyway, and you wouldn't know a lot of the history. Could be a different grade of oil or brand etc. Did you use the same type of filter as what came off it? It may have ticked before you had it anyway. I had one that'd be fine for 6-8000km after an oil change and then tick until I did one.

theclick · Post by **theclick** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 11:51 am

Same brand of oil filter. It had ticked on probably 10 occasions before the oil change, but usually just for a short time after start up, or after it had been sitting doing nothing for a week or so. Now it seems to do it up to half the time.

amk · Post by **amk** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 7:44 pm

I have done almost everything to stop that annoying noise. I changed the tappets, the lashes, the oil pump, the small O-Rings that go in the camshaft, tried different oil's hmmm what else… done mostly everything then I changed the cylinder head on one of the side to check if it makes a difference and it calmed down. So what I think is that the where the tappets go on the cylinder head, the seat has loosened up thus loosing oil pressure and not filling the tappets so my view is that change of cylinder head or change of the tappets seats. I noticed a bit of power decrease don’t know bout the damage though.

esray71 · Post by **esray71** » Wed Jan 02, 2008 7:25 pm

my EA82 in my 94 L series has a bit more than a 'tick', especially when cold and when has been not running for at least 1 1/2 hrs it more like a loud "clack clack clack....".After 5 mins it shuts up. It did this about 4 weeks after buying from a car yard, probably put something in the oil to shut it up. I tried a few different oils but made no difference, noticed that when i drained the oil the first time there were a few small pieces of metal. I'm sure it might have something to do with the lash adjusters, it still runs ok but i take it easy until i have the heads overhauled very soon. It's good to buy a workshop manual and see what goes on inside....bought the manual for 32 bucks at repco the other day. Good luck!

tex · Post by **tex** » Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:05 pm

Yes this Ticking is a bad thing and yes its a common thing in the EA's and they will run forever with it happening but its like driving with no oil they will drive but not for as long as they should and in the EA's they are adjustable but it wont necesaraly fix the problem.
P.S. for those that don't know as well as different viscosity ie 20W 50 Or what ever your running they are also rated in stickiness for example sj is better than sh etc this will all be on the back cause sticky is good and oils ain't oils!

Goon · Post by **Goon** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 2:47 am

Well peoples, the wagon is due for an oil and filter change, so maybe i can try some of the suggested fixes for lifter tick we've listed here. Firstly how'bout we narrow down the shopping list for oils?..Scorp Subaru recommends using 10/30 ELF, Iremember someone mentioning Magnatec(Castrol?), and wasn't there a mention about using heavier oil, 10/40-50? I will try to get an original subi filter and check all the breather/return hoses, PCV valve, fiddly bits, head gaskets etc.. beforehand, so waddyareckon?

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 7:29 am

Gregory's page 11 says engine oil should be SF 20W/50. The closest to this I have found is the Shell Helix SG 20W/50. Even most supermarkets sell this one. I have tried other oils and have never had much luck with newer SM SL etc ratings. However depending on your climate you might want to either increase or decrease your 20W/50 etc rate. Thinner, 5/40 etc is better for hotter climate (? is that right) and 20/60 etc is better for colder. Also if you have badly worn tappets or whatever they are you might find that you need a winter and summer oil obviously with different ?W/? ratings to accommodate for the effects the temp has on the viscosity. Again however that will only really work till the car is at operating temp.

A too thin oil will not be able to build up enough pressure to lube the tappets and a too think one will not be able to get in there fast enough, hence you need to find a good medium. For me the Shell RED bottle works well at the moment.

SUBYDAZZ · Post by **SUBYDAZZ** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 9:39 pm

Try for genuine filter and some Castrol Magnatec (15W40 or is it 10W40?), works for a few. No, I am not a Castrol Rep.

Goon · Post by **Goon** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:36 pm

Thanks Smokey and Subydaz for your replies, I will get an original filter and buy some heavier oil asap, at the moment I am a little busy with work (trying to help keep fuel below $2/litre in Qld) but will sop very soon.
Just a couple of Q's though; will magnatec function well in an alloy head? How often do you oil and filter change?

I understand these questions may sound dumb but I appreciate being able to discuss this with ENTHUSIASTS and not just mechanics.

theclick · Post by **theclick** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 10:40 pm

The tick seems to have stopped, well atleast for last week or two, so maybe the new oil jsut wasnt getting up to the lifters properly, or there was an air bubble in the system... dunno

amk · Post by **amk** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 2:30 am

Sorry a bit lost here so what was the solution to the ticking prob?

SUBYDAZZ · Post by **SUBYDAZZ** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 7:57 am

I know Magnatec is supposed to be *magnetic*, and the block is alloy, but the internals aren't - whatever it does, it seems to be a commonly used oil and seems to work well.

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:10 am

amk wrote:Sorry a bit lost here so what was the solution to the ticking prob?

1 step is renew Oil pump and seals

if that doesn't work,

2. run the engine for a short time with a highly detergent oil - diesel oil,
idling for maybe 10minutes......I wouldn't be game to drive it for sure.....
Then drain throughly.

if that does not work

3. need to physically remove the lash adjusters and clean

someone did a really good writeup on this IIRC....where is it?

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 9:34 am

Goon wrote:Just a couple of Q's though; will magnatec function well in an alloy head? How often do you oil and filter change?

No idea about Magnatec (never used it). Book for the liberty says 12500km between each service, not sure what the L is, but I do bot cars at 5000. Always a new oil filter (usually repco) and oil. Like I said the red Shell helix seems to work well, I might try the 20W/60 (older engine) oil one day.

The liberty I like to use a semi synthetic oil. Shel helix Plus seems to work fine at around $26 on sale 5L. I have used other oils and have not really seen much of a difference in the EJ22.

SUBYDAZZ · Post by **SUBYDAZZ** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 11:14 am

I tried Helix in my L-Series once and it ticked like it was going out of fashion, changed to Magnatec of exactly same viscosity and tick stopped for almost a whole service interval. This is just one experience though.

I do my cars at 10,000. I think 5000km is a little excessive for my purposes (non-turbo) as I would be doing 6 or 7 services per year, and at around $50 a go it adds substantially to running costs.

Goon · Post by **Goon** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 8:55 pm

OK, finally got round to oil and filter change, checked all leaking suspects found one on drivers' side cover, tricky spot to get at, prolly explains why the mechanic(s) couldn't find it - too busy adding up their offer of a $300 oil and filter change! which i declined, after they threw a bucket of water on me and picked me up off the floor of course.. anyways the lifters are quiet as expected after oil change, soo next will be rear bearings, seals ,brakes, lower suspension bushes etc... Many Thanks once again to all!

SUBYDAZZ · Post by **SUBYDAZZ** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 7:25 am

Wow, $300, were they to use a gold plated filter?

Goon · Post by **Goon** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 10:58 pm

HAHAHA! Not sure about the gold, but the blokes in the shop literally rolled their eyes when my L wagon pulled into the drive. Guess most people are driving the latest Subies now....oh well, I am happy with the old girl even if she's a bit faded, dented, rattly and dirty. At least I can point it in my preferred direction and not worry about what me mates will think, It's great to see their expressions when she goes places their nissans, toyotas and jeeps won't! Bought her for myself, fixin her myself, driven by me- what else could be better?