Moving the Engine Back

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Tue Mar 04, 2008 10:38 pm

does anyone know what is the best method to move my engine further back?

has any one even moved their engine further back?

EJ22 into an MY btw.

i need more clearance between teh Rad and the engine.

it looks like it will be easier to move the engine back a little bit than trying to relocate the Rad further forward.

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 5:49 am

Easier to move the radiator.

If you move the engine you also have to move the gearbox. This means you have to modify the gear shifter and shorten the tailshaft. You will have to remount both engine and gearbox.

SubaRute · Post by **SubaRute** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:54 am

ej22 into an MY just shove it all in,the radiator will fit,you just wont have the lib fans or MY fans installed between the engine and radiator.look for a more slim line fan or mount 1 on the outside of the radiator and re-wire it .

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:11 pm

BYB - Yer actually makes sense. Altho when i get the new 5 speed gearbox slotted back in ill have to do some shifter modding and figure out the crossmember. But tailshaft is a good point.

My fans are on the front of rad atm and coz the engine has moved downwards its also moved slightly forwards. So now touching the rad. Mainly the passenger side camcover is hittin on the bottom hose outlet (which comes out then bends down atm)
It doesnt look to easy to move the rad either but ill have another look tonight.

SUBARUTE - are u saying that everything will fit with a 3 inch lift and ej22 behind a dual core rad. Maybe it is actually only the rad outlet and i can get that modded without restricting the outlet size.

It is hard to figure out exact clearance as the motor isnt held up by havin a gearbox on and wants to fall forward lol.

Input is appreciated.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:44 pm

Don't forget moving engine back will also put more angle on your CV's. You'd need custom engine mounts I'd say.

You could move the entire engine crossmember back which would keep your front hubs in the same place in relation to the engine and prevent the CV angle changing...
but this would put the front wheels closer to the firewall so cause more scrubbing. You'd also need to modify the steering extension, probably shorten it.

Seriously tho, its much easier to just mess around with the radiator and fans.

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 3:06 pm

Mines back about 20mm.Used the lib metal plate and l series mounts ,if you look at these parts it easy to see how to do it.The cv angle is about the same as a liberty.

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:45 pm

Actually I have heard that you can use thin fans - I forget where and which car - I think it was either Merc or BMW.. not sure I recall it was only 1 and half inch thick
Cheers
AP

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:59 pm

i was only thinking of moving it back to the same vertival position it was without lift.

i culda sworn it went down and forwards when the crossmember lift blocks went in.

which was on sunday?? i think

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:15 pm

Have you got an engine stay rod to stop the motor moving forward and back??

Also... have you thought about dropping the gear box crossmember... this will angle the motor backwards and actually move it away from the radiator a bit.

Just some ideas to think about there.

Dave

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:21 pm

SuBaRiNo wrote:Have you got an engine stay rod to stop the motor moving forward and back??

Also... have you thought about dropping the gear box crossmember... this will angle the motor backwards and actually move it away from the radiator a bit.

Just some ideas to think about there.

Dave

good points there.

Stay Rod - had one yes. but is now to short for Lift. so will make another up.

and havent got a gearbox in atm but it is a thing to look at when it goes in yes.

the main problem is my bottom rad outlet hitting the passenger side cam cover. which im thinking wont really clear if i was to only drop gearbox down a touch.

but things to think bout yes.

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:24 pm

Ohh i get ya... radiator mod time. I wonder how mine differs from yours.

Dave

SubaRute · Post by **SubaRute** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 3:56 am

PM me your email addy and i will see if i can send you back some pics of an ej22 donk and lib rad in a brumby that is currently under going transformation ta

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 5:44 am

Put the gearbox in and see what happens. No point even thinking about it until that is in. The do lean forwards with out it.

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 10:52 am

yer. Had a quick look last night and even tho the engine was tied back it was still leaning forward alot.
Tied it back further and now i can see that i need to get bottom rad outlet modified and it will all fit up.

Altho wont be sure on exactly how much clearance there will be between ps pump pulley nut and the core. Altho now i think it will fit fine.

Thanks

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 6:09 pm

awesome. lets get this baby rolling!

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 6:11 pm

SuBaRiNo wrote:Ohh i get ya... radiator mod time. I wonder how mine differs from yours.

Dave

ur bottom outlet Dave.

doesnt it have like a 90 degree bend in it to point straight down?

i can actually make do with my top hose from the looks of it without gettin that outlet modified again. (atm its going straight out but was enlarged to EJ size)

Post by **Alex** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 6:18 pm

i hear spoofatatatatak has a 3incher......AROUND!!

alex

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:28 am

Matatak wrote:when i get the new 5 speed gearbox slotted back in ill have to do some shifter modding and figure out the crossmember. But tailshaft is a good point.

I've heard that when you drop a 5 speed into an MY that you need to either use the L series 2 piece tail shaft or shorten(?) the MY one piece shaft. Basically what i'm getting at is that you will need to mod the tail shaft if you want to keep a 1 piece shaft - perfect time to do it if you're going to move the engine back. You're at a good time to do all of this if you decide this is what you want to do...

Cheers

Bennie