What'll all this cost me?!
What'll all this cost me?!
hey,
Thinking of a few things to help my car out (89 L Series wagon)... could anyone help estimate how much I would expect to pay for it all?
Also, how likely do you think my mechanic would be to let me pay it off in bits rather than all at once ... I've been using them for about 2 1/2 yrs now... and I drive to Clayton from Brunswick because I rate them so highly (after advice from ppl on this forum no less).. Not sure if I can swing it really.
Plus, if they're going to do my heater core, is there anything else I should ask them to look at while they're in there - as I think a large chunk of cost for that fix will be going on the manhours pulling the dash apart !! And with good reason obviously! (But has to be done - bit freaky driving on a cold rainy morning madly rubbing at the condensation and trying to see out the windows - scary)
-New heater core
-New gas struts
-Tyres - got a few which I could possibly swap over? What tyres are recommended anyhow?
-New key barrel for the hatch (any day now this is going to kick the bucket and I'll be trying to squeeze a double bass in via the side door - er - it's not gonna happen!)
hmmm that's all really... hope someone has some tips!
Thinking of a few things to help my car out (89 L Series wagon)... could anyone help estimate how much I would expect to pay for it all?
Also, how likely do you think my mechanic would be to let me pay it off in bits rather than all at once ... I've been using them for about 2 1/2 yrs now... and I drive to Clayton from Brunswick because I rate them so highly (after advice from ppl on this forum no less).. Not sure if I can swing it really.
Plus, if they're going to do my heater core, is there anything else I should ask them to look at while they're in there - as I think a large chunk of cost for that fix will be going on the manhours pulling the dash apart !! And with good reason obviously! (But has to be done - bit freaky driving on a cold rainy morning madly rubbing at the condensation and trying to see out the windows - scary)
-New heater core
-New gas struts
-Tyres - got a few which I could possibly swap over? What tyres are recommended anyhow?
-New key barrel for the hatch (any day now this is going to kick the bucket and I'll be trying to squeeze a double bass in via the side door - er - it's not gonna happen!)
hmmm that's all really... hope someone has some tips!
Well at a guess it would be probably $150 for the heater core (core only, dont know how much to fit it), Assuming the struts for the boot?? $25 to get them re gassed (Got mine done for that), 13" tyres are about $60 to $70 each from places like k mart fitted and you can buy new barrels for locks for about $70 for all ignition, front doors and Boot from somewhere like supercheap.
Cheers, Jarrod
Cheers, Jarrod
'91 Legacy GT wagon, 2.35 turbo, td05-20g, 05sti spec c dccd 6 speed, 3 inch, front mount, power fc
Regassing - Would I have to leave the car with them or does it just take 10 minutes? Any recommendations? My mechanic told me they didn't rate regassing very much...
I wonder if I could get them to put new hoses for airflow in while they've got the dash in pieces... or check the seals or something. Oh and figure out why the dash clock never keeps the time! That would be so cool if it was fixed... It would be like a brand new car
I wonder if I could get them to put new hoses for airflow in while they've got the dash in pieces... or check the seals or something. Oh and figure out why the dash clock never keeps the time! That would be so cool if it was fixed... It would be like a brand new car

I've priced the heater cores for between $300 and $400 (supply only) at quite a few places so beware, you will probably have to shop around a fair bit to get a good price.
EZ30 L series - Monsterwagon
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
The struts have to be taken out of the car, only about a 10 minute job with a spanner. Not sure but less than a day.
Whit the clock, check where the power supply for the radio comes from, mine came from the radio and drew power away which made it lose time.
Whit the clock, check where the power supply for the radio comes from, mine came from the radio and drew power away which made it lose time.
'91 Legacy GT wagon, 2.35 turbo, td05-20g, 05sti spec c dccd 6 speed, 3 inch, front mount, power fc
jsut find some good 2nd hand gas struts and fit them yourself. Will take 10mins.
pull your clock apart and i bet you'll have dry solders. Causing the clock the turn on and off etc. Either re-solder or find a new one.
With the heater core, i wouldnt go 2nd hand personally, just becuase it could go bang again soon.
Alot of these things can be done yourself and youll save alot of $$ in the process.
where are you located mate?
alex
pull your clock apart and i bet you'll have dry solders. Causing the clock the turn on and off etc. Either re-solder or find a new one.
With the heater core, i wouldnt go 2nd hand personally, just becuase it could go bang again soon.
Alot of these things can be done yourself and youll save alot of $$ in the process.
where are you located mate?
alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.
previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.
previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.
Brunswick VIC... I'm really not too confident with doing the jobs myself though ey - If I had a mechanic mate I could call if I somehow soldered the dash clock to the passenger headrest (hey it could happen!) I probably would attempt it! I would like to do a short course in auto mechanics one day... it's a dream haha!
Agree with Alex on the heater core - too much of a PITA to put a 2nd-hand unit in and have it fail. It's a common problem with the L-series.
Clock - piece of cake, there's a big 2w resistor on the back (pop the entire unit out, it's got a connector with about 3-4 wires which you can undo), take the back cover off, and in the top-middle of the PCB is the resistor. The solder will look dull and is not making a clean contact between the resistor and the circuit board. Get a soldering iron, apply plenty of heat and reflow the solder joint so it appears silvery. Re-assemble, plug back in...done.
Gas struts - my local wrecker has a bucketful, $5 a piece. If you can push the ends together by hand they're worn out, if you have to put your weight on one end to get any movement they're still good. Mazda 626 hatchbacks from the 80s are a good donor, nice long units with lots of travel. Generally they have a metal clip at the bottom of the strut that you lever out with a screwdriver, then you can pull the strut off the ball.
Tyres - ditch those 13's and put on some 14's - much better handling, and much better tyre choice. Pug 505's will bolt up, find some at a wreckers, a cheap set of tyres if you're on a tight budget, some hubcaps off a later-model Subaru with 14" rims and you're golden.
If you want some help with the clock & struts, etc, shoot me a PM, I'm about 1/2 an hour from Clayton...
Dean.
Clock - piece of cake, there's a big 2w resistor on the back (pop the entire unit out, it's got a connector with about 3-4 wires which you can undo), take the back cover off, and in the top-middle of the PCB is the resistor. The solder will look dull and is not making a clean contact between the resistor and the circuit board. Get a soldering iron, apply plenty of heat and reflow the solder joint so it appears silvery. Re-assemble, plug back in...done.
Gas struts - my local wrecker has a bucketful, $5 a piece. If you can push the ends together by hand they're worn out, if you have to put your weight on one end to get any movement they're still good. Mazda 626 hatchbacks from the 80s are a good donor, nice long units with lots of travel. Generally they have a metal clip at the bottom of the strut that you lever out with a screwdriver, then you can pull the strut off the ball.
Tyres - ditch those 13's and put on some 14's - much better handling, and much better tyre choice. Pug 505's will bolt up, find some at a wreckers, a cheap set of tyres if you're on a tight budget, some hubcaps off a later-model Subaru with 14" rims and you're golden.
If you want some help with the clock & struts, etc, shoot me a PM, I'm about 1/2 an hour from Clayton...
Dean.
1989 Brumby - Shiny new red paint, stroked EJ20 phase 2 SOHC with Darton sleeves bored to EJ22, Wiseco high-compression pistons, Delta 2000 grind cams , EJ/XT6 5 stud with WRX 4/2 pots, 5-speed, 86 GTS seats and so much more.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.
hey,
Dfoyl is right about the clock, mine kept going dull every now and then and was behind on the time. i took the pcb out and almost all the joints looked like dry joints. Just go over them all with a soldering iron to avoid any future problems.
Cheers,
adam
Dfoyl is right about the clock, mine kept going dull every now and then and was behind on the time. i took the pcb out and almost all the joints looked like dry joints. Just go over them all with a soldering iron to avoid any future problems.
Cheers,
adam
L Series current mods:
EJ20G, 3" lift, Roo bar, spotties, EJ Sporty steering rack, desert rats, 27" tyres, 2.5" exhaust
EJ20G, 3" lift, Roo bar, spotties, EJ Sporty steering rack, desert rats, 27" tyres, 2.5" exhaust
- sven '2'
- General Member
- Posts: 1357
- Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2007 5:45 pm
- Location: Adelaide, South Australia
re the gas struts
go the rock-ape fix.
Bend them slightly to stop them falling on your head - worked great when mine failed way out bush
Like i said, not a pretty solution!
PS: have a go doing some these yourself - they are pretty straightforward, (save the heater core) and the more you do, the better you will become...plus the satisfaction of DIY
sven
go the rock-ape fix.
Bend them slightly to stop them falling on your head - worked great when mine failed way out bush
Like i said, not a pretty solution!
PS: have a go doing some these yourself - they are pretty straightforward, (save the heater core) and the more you do, the better you will become...plus the satisfaction of DIY
sven
73 Yamaha DT3 250
08 Ford BF wagon - LPG FTMFW
14 Toyota Kluger - goodness!
08 Ford BF wagon - LPG FTMFW
14 Toyota Kluger - goodness!
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12626
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
- Contact:
Hey Kezpipa,
Do a search for heater core replacement or something of that subject. I did a step by step write up that was apparently useful.
With a bit of time, some attention to detail and some tools, you can achieve anything - pulling your car apart may sound daunting but its really not that bad - the more you do it the easier it becomes.
I would go to a radiator joint and have them make up an all metal core so the problem will not occur again. GTlegs had this done last year, he has a dead core that I gave him to give the rad joint as a template so he only had to pull his dash apart once.
If you're coming on the vic cruise we could probabily organise to have the dead core passed on to you. Or we could all end up at your joint for a subi TLC arvo/evening
Cheers
Bennie
Do a search for heater core replacement or something of that subject. I did a step by step write up that was apparently useful.
With a bit of time, some attention to detail and some tools, you can achieve anything - pulling your car apart may sound daunting but its really not that bad - the more you do it the easier it becomes.
I would go to a radiator joint and have them make up an all metal core so the problem will not occur again. GTlegs had this done last year, he has a dead core that I gave him to give the rad joint as a template so he only had to pull his dash apart once.
If you're coming on the vic cruise we could probabily organise to have the dead core passed on to you. Or we could all end up at your joint for a subi TLC arvo/evening

Cheers
Bennie
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12626
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
- Contact:
Nah Fang, it'll all be the same, and if it is piped in from the other side I couldn't imagine subaru using a different core, just different rubber hoses... My bet would be that the water for the heater core still comes in on our passenger side, even in the US.Fang wrote:Sorry to drag up an older post - but would you expect that a heater core for a US Loyale would fit in our L Series? Can anyone think of an issue with the LH / RH drive thing?
Send a PM to The_Loyal - he'll beable to set you straight.
Kezpipa - would you like to organise a weekend to drop in a do some work on your L? I've pulled my dash out so many times its not funny...
Let us know.
Cheers
Bennie
- vincentvega
- Senior Member
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