A very different Subie

last celtic warrior · Post by **last celtic warrior** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 2:47 pm

I'm about to get into my next personal project and have already started accumulating the parts. I wonder what I can use these for...

Picked them up the other day and they will require slightly more power than the Sherpa motor I WAS going to use. That's ok though, Rick is donating an appropriate donk to the cause.

the gumbi brumby · Post by **the gumbi brumby** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 2:50 pm

good luck, looks like it will be another build to watch

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 8:57 pm

*raised eye brows...* that'll be interesting!
Cheers
AP

dibs · Post by **dibs** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 4:23 pm

steerind and drives . did you win loto steve lmao or mabe two motors i got a couple of hydraulic drives here if you want t look at using them

dibs

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 10:49 pm

dibs wrote:steerind and drives . did you win loto steve lmao or mabe two motors i got a couple of hydraulic drives here if you want t look at using them

Or an open diff with big discs that are independanly operated

I wanna know what the motor's going to be and how the body is going to look when its done, then I'll look at the 'nitty gritties'.

Bennie

last celtic warrior · Post by **last celtic warrior** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 7:58 pm

Body? Who needs a body when you've got tracks? Got no room for a body anyway with the front and rear PTOs and linkages, with the blade, auger, cutter bar and all on it...

Motor will now be a standard EA81, with open diff in an auto box, external clutched diff lock, chain drive to sprocket shaft and independent handbrake controls for steering.

With the reduction from the output shafts of the Subie box to the sprocket shaft (where the diff lock will be mounted), and then the further reduction of gearing via the small drive sprockets, I'm working with around a 5:1 overall reduction. This'll mean lots of power and torque going to the tracks while keeping a good speed on the PTO shaft. So with the gearing, and only wanting a top speed of around 25 kph, a standard EA81 will be plenty strong enough to push dirt, mow paddocks and tow logs among other jobs I have for it...

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 8:27 pm

Sounds good. You're going to use the rear gearbox output as the PTO right? That's why the reduction to the tracks... Got it. Sounds good too.

Cheers

Bennie

brumbee · Post by **brumbee** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 8:29 pm

dibs · Post by **dibs** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 9:20 pm

thats a pissa that thing was looking for it to show steve
i still recon two flywheels eather side of diff and two clutches on each driveis the way to go . need that beer steve lol
dibs

last celtic warrior · Post by **last celtic warrior** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 9:24 pm

No, I wish...

Nah, I need something slow and grunty, so will be like a sluggish but still powerful RipSaw. I love that thing, it gives me goose bumps.

PTO will come off the crankshaft with a reduction, and the auto box is a 2WD one, so no rear output on that. Basically what I'm making is a custom built Drott.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 9:28 pm

dibs wrote:thats a pissa that thing was looking for it to show steve
i still recon two flywheels eather side of diff and two clutches on each driveis the way to go . need that beer steve lol
dibs

I don't see the point of this as you would be relying on loosing traction on one side of the unit to turn a corner - using disc brakes each side much in the same manner is much more efficent for turning purposes as well as braking, this is how I've seen it work on small bulldozers and I'm sure its the same or very similar on larger units too...

Also disc brakes would be much more compact over a flywheel/clutch plate setup. I so hope we're talking about the same thing now that I've written all this out.

Cheers

Bennie

PS, can't view the youtube vid - got crappy dial up again (back at home).

dibs · Post by **dibs** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 7:12 pm

nana if you dont use a locked diff it will just turn on its own. with a diff lock it drives straight if you use a suby diff with a fly wheel clutch on eather side gives you a point where you can break the drive .freewheeling that side. then with a brake track side of clutch . you can lock up the free track and bingo instant turn. suby diffs are good cause of the short shafts. weld the center and put the plane in motion.

i had one of those banana split six wheelers simailr idea
older stile dozers where similar to

if you use hydraulics it takes to much power to drive (why dont we have hydraulic drive cars) well ya do sorta . an excavator final drives are funny to explain and i cant think of the name of it

im not a nowit all but i have thought of this idea alot . onlt thing i would do diferent is use a vw diff hehe upto 20 gears. i did that with a buggy with a holden motor and box .

now whats ya brain doing steve lmao ahahahahahaha

dibs

rtcb65 · Post by **rtcb65** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 7:24 pm

dibs wrote:
i had one of those banana split six wheelers simailr idea
older stile dozers where similar to

im not a nowit all
dibs

Ya not a know it all , but you are showing your age.. Banana splits.. Loved that show. lol

last celtic warrior · Post by **last celtic warrior** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 8:57 pm

Yeah, the Banana Splits were the ducks nuts... LOL Was addicted to that when I was a little younger.

No need for the clutch either side Dibsie, as I'm sticking with the idea I came up with for a separate (remote mounted) diff lock. I'll be running a shaft above the gearbox with a sleeve over one end and a standard clutch in the middle joining the two. One drive sprocket will be on the end of the shaft, while the other will be on the end of the tube (running on the shaft). There'll be a chain sprocket on each side of the 'box driving the clutch lockable shaft above. Effectively, this setup will do the same job as clutched diff lock would mounted inside the the diff itself.

riksta · Post by **riksta** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 10:10 pm

You lost me!!!!

How about you build it and put up some pics so we can follow along with you.

Rik.

spike · Post by **spike** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 11:34 am

did this project get finished??? or started for that matter??

Thalass · Post by **Thalass** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 3:57 am

The open diff with left and right brakes idea does work - my father in law has a floating six wheeler that uses that method. It's a pain in the arse to get used to, though. I'd prefer two motors :P

Subyroo · Post by **Subyroo** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 11:35 am

brumbee wrote:<object width="425" height="344">

<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/XyX83q756UQ&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></object>

not sure if this will work, but is this what you have in mind??

Put me down for one of those.

spike · Post by **spike** » Tue Oct 05, 2010 7:49 pm

hey steve

anything happen here

last celtic warrior · Post by **last celtic warrior** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 12:23 pm

Nah mate... Way too many things on my plate. I've tried to cut back a little on the number of diffrent projects I'm trying to do, so this idea has been shelved, at least for a while.

I'm also not doing the Subie quad bike anymore, but that's because I'm building it as a "go-kart" for my sons instead. Nothing wasted, as the chassis I'd put together is reused and the Sherpa motor/box is now mounted in the rear with cut down MY drive shafts coupling it to the rear wheels. I'll be locking it in 1st gear when the boys are driving it, because it'll be a bit too fast with half the weight of a Sherpa and the larger MY wheels...